Are you visiting Tours and looking for something off the beaten track? Saint-Cosme Priory is for you! A veritable heritage treasure, it will delight history buffs, contemplatives in search of serenity and lovers of poetry alike. In addition to the remarkable staging of its remains, this religious building and writer's house is distinguished by its incredible collection of gardens and its poetry trail.
In this article, we'll fill you in on the latest discoveries and anecdotes about this unusual place! You'll also find all our useful tips in pictures for visiting Saint-Cosme Priory and having a wonderful time!
This guide is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Why visit Saint-Cosme Priory?
Is the priory worth it? Our opinion:
Yes, the priory is even triply interesting because it combines:
- A heritage dimension: the priory is remarkable for the way its remains have been laid out, and we loved the meticulous mediation work undertaken to help visitors understand its history.
- A spiritual dimension: a truly peaceful atmosphere emanates from the convent gardens, where we spent long hours in contemplation.
- A poetic dimension: as the site is the final resting place of Ronsard, the famous 16th-century poet, poetry can be read, declaimed and heard at every step of the way!
For us, it's one of the best things to do in Tours! (article on the city coming soon).
Why is Saint-Cosme Priory famous?
Primarily a religious building (monks have lived here since 1001!), it became famous as the home of Pierre de Ronsard, a major figure in 16th-century French poetry . In particular, he was the leader of the Pléiade, a group of poets who decided to fight ignorance and unify the French language. The building is also known for housing the remains of the famous author. In fact, since 2012, the Prieuré Saint-Cosme has been awarded the "Maisons des Illustres" label, officially recognizing the site's heritage interest!
Listed as a historic monument since 1925, the priory is now renowned throughout the Centre-Val de Loire region for its eclectic programming (dance shows, contemporary art exhibitions, wine fairs, poetry festivals), which delights young and old alike!
Our favorite moments
The priory is definitely worth a visit:
- Rediscovering Ronsard's major work: reading the various poems and listening to the carefully selected sound extracts was surely the highlight of our visit!
- Appreciating the evolution of the site: we were impressed by the various educational tools available. In particular, they enabled us to understand the historical context of the site, its evolution through the various developments (remains and gardens) and to situate Ronsard in the French literary landscape.
- Strolling through the garden in total tranquility: we loved feeling out of time, away from the world, in the various green spaces on the site.
WHERE TO STAY IN Tours
In the city center
Enjoy the city, its restaurants and beautiful architecture.
- Hotel Ferdinand - check prices, pictures and availability
- Hôtel du Cygne - check prices, pictures and availability
- Hotel L'Adresse - check prices, pictures and availability
Near the station and around the city center
An early train? Or just a little more peace and quiet? Here are our recommendations:
- Hotel Les Trésorières - 5 stars - check prices, pictures and availability
- Aparthotel Central Parc Tours - check prices, pictures and availability
- Hotel Oceania L'Univers Tours - check prices, pictures and availability
In the countryside around
Looking for a bit of peace and quiet, without straying too far from the city of Tours? Here's our suggestion:
- Hotel Domaine de la Tortinière - 20 min away - check prices, pictures and availability
- Hotel Troglododo - unusual 25min away - check prices, pictures and availability
History in brief
The priory as we know it today was founded in 1092 by the chapter of Saint-Martin de Tours, after having welcomed various religious groups as early as the year 1000!
In the 16th century: the arrival of Pierre Ronsard as prior (1565-1585) gave the priory a new lease of life, after having been sacked by the Huguenots in 1563. The priory's heyday came in the 17th century.
In the 18th century: the priory is closed, the buildings in poor condition are demolished and the materials reused for other religious buildings. It was confiscated during the French Revolution and sold as national property.
In the 19th century, the land was subdivided and became a sort of village shared by several families, most of whom made a living from market gardening.
20th century: the refectory is rebuilt after being inadvertently bombed by the Allies in 1944. Since 1951, the Conseil départemental d'Indre-et-Loire has taken over ownership of the Prieuré Saint-Cosme, and has carried out numerous works to enhance the visitor experience.
Access: Prieuré Saint-Cosme, Tours
Where is the priory?
The priory, home of Ronsard, is located in La Riche, 3 km from Tours.
How to get there?
- By public transport: Bus 3A from Tours station (20 minutes), La Pléiade stop, click here for timetables.
- By car: 3 km from Tours, close to the A10 and A85 freeways.
- By bike: the priory is less than 5 km from the "La Loire à Vélo" cycle route(details here), which we really recommend you take for the beauty of its landscapes! Read our article on how to visit the Loire by bike.
To plan your itinerary, we recommend you visit the official Touraine public transport network website here.
OUR TIPS FOR RENTING A CAR IN Loire
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars - one of the best rated sites.
- Choose a fairly compact car (many villages have narrowed the road).
- Think aboutfull insurance (parking in big cities is really tight).
- There is a lot of demand, book it early.
Parking
If you're coming by car: free parking is available on site, including 3 disabled parking spaces right next to the building entrance.
If you come by bike: the priory has a secure bike shelter and a repair kit for your bikes!
DISCOVER Tours
- Things to do in Tours
- Where to sleep in Tours: best hotels
- Where to eat in Tours: best restaurants - coming soon
- Rent a car in Tours
- Best castles around Tours
- Visit the Tours Museum of Fine Arts - coming soon
- Visit the Basilica of Saint Martin in Tours - coming soon
- Visit the Botanical Garden of Tours - coming soon
- Visit Saint-Gatien Cathedral
- Visit the Companionship Museum - coming soon
Useful tips: duration, times, eating.
Best time to visit
We certainly recommend coming in spring, when the garden is in full bloom with wisteria, lilacs and, above all, roses, Ronsard's emblematic flower in his poetry.
The crowds will be smaller if you come as soon as the site opens, but the number of visitors to the site is regulated (except for special events). If you come early in the day, you'll also have the chance to enjoy a guided tour (which ends in the early afternoon, see our "guided tours" section below).
Visit duration and main difficulties
We recommend that you allow between 1 and 2 hours for your visit. This will give you time to delve deeper into the priory's historical context in the introductory rooms, discover the remains at your leisure and explore Ronsard's poetic universe in the logis. We recommend that you add a good half-hour to your time there, to take full advantage of the garden's facilities, perhaps have a refreshment and drop by the well-stocked boutique.
Awarded the Tourisme & Handicap label in 2021, the priory is fully accessible to wheelchair users (and strollers), with the exception of the upper floors of the Ronsard dwelling and the guest kitchen. To remedy this, the facility offers a QR code for viewing floors and listening to audio content. Chairs are also available free of charge at the entrance. Visitor aids for the deaf, blind and mentally handicapped are available on request.
Advice on how to visit
There is no set order to visit, but we recommend that you proceed as follows:
- Start with the interpretation rooms: this will give you an idea of the history of the site before you begin your visit,
- Continue with the discovery of the remains to understand the place in the time of the canons,
- Stroll through the various gardens and take a break in the shade of the many trees,
- Before finishing on a high note with a visit to the logis du Prieur to explore Ronsard's poetic world and listen to some of his verses!
A LITTLE MORE patience
All the photos, maps, information, good addresses to make your stay in the Loire Valley a success, will soon be gathered in a single ebook!
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Visiting with children
We were blown away by the quality of the mediation offer, adapted to children of all ages.
As soon as you arrive at reception, you can ask for free booklets to accompany your visit. Treasure hunts, riddles, challenges - there's something for everyone! They even offer a "super poet bag" containing wooden supports for playing with words. You can find the different routes here.
In the dwelling, in addition to the interactive desks to manipulate and the various projections that punctuate the tour, children can have fun with the "poet of princes" game. It provides an insight into the role of the poet laureate in the 16th century, and invites children to put themselves in the shoes of both the king who commissions poems and the poet.
Finally, various themed workshops are organized throughout the year, and especially during the school vacations, to awaken your children to poetry, such as the "poetic egg hunt" offered at Easter, where children search for poems hidden in the garden, with a chocolate tasting at the end!
Schedules and rates
Schedules vary according to the following. Please note that the ticket office closes half an hour before the site closes. Find out more here.
- April1 to May 31 and September1 to October 31: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- November1 to December 31 and January 2 to March 31: 10am-12.30pm and 2pm-5pm (closed Tuesdays)
- June1 to August 31: 10 a.m.-7 p.m.
- December 25 and January1: Closed
Prices are as follows:
- Full price: €6 for over 18s
- Reduced rate: €5 for children aged 7 and over, students, disabled persons and accompanying adults, and large family cardholders.
- Free admission: children under 7, jobseekers and social minima
Guided tours
Two formats of guided tours (included in the ticket price!) are available for individuals:
- A 20-minute "première découverte" guided tour in French is offered daily at 10 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. on request from reception, subject to guide availability.
- A more comprehensive 1-hour guided tour is offered daily at 10:30 am and 2:30 pm, in French or English, by e-mail reservation only (min. 24 hours in advance).
In addition to these visits, a number of educational aids (room booklet, projections, interactive desks) have been set up to make your visit more fun and poetic!
Please note: Since our visit, the garden's itinerary has even been enhanced with sound installations to allow you to listen to poems read by famous performers. Finally, an olfactory trail has been set up in the dwelling to create an even more immersive visit!
Catering
The priory has a sales area selling hot and cold drinks. It also offers a reserved picnic area (on the left before exiting the store). Take a break before setting off again to conquer the gardens! Alternatively, check out our article on restaurants in Tours, which will be published shortly.
Understanding the history of Saint-Cosme Priory
As you can see from our "History in brief" section, the priory has had several lives. And the whole ambition of the site today is to take you through these different years to better understand its evolution.
Immersive interpretation rooms
Located in the entrance building, we advise you not to miss the two interpretation rooms, essential for understanding the evolution of the site!
For our part, we loved immersing ourselves in the different eras of the priory through the various art objects on display or the archaeological evidence, found during major excavations carried out in 2009-2010. We were very interested, for example, in the data collected on the monks' burials (age, state of health, details of funeral rituals). Our favorite? The interactive map provides a visual overview of the successive stages in the life of the priory.
A stroll through the remains
Once you've got the background in mind, take your time wandering through the various remains. You'll discover the ruins of the cemetery, the large and small churches, the kitchen and the chapter house, which once housed a dormitory and infirmary. We particularly enjoyed imagining what the old cloister was like, observing the remains of an elliptical well and the remains of a washbasin used by the canons for their ablutions. And even though most of the walls have been razed to the ground, it's still possible to project yourself into the future, thanks to the visual markers (wooden pattelages, terracotta shards) that highlight the era's footprints!
For our part, we were particularly moved by the discovery of the Romanesque church, built in the 12th century. Although only the chevet, the Romanesque capitals, the Gothic arch and part of the cross-beam remain, we loved seeing it like this, in its simplest form, in communion with the surrounding nature. It's all the more beautiful when the sun slips through the windows!
Our favourite detail? The axial chapel and its almost intact altar. This chapel is dedicated to Saint-Cosme and his twin Saint-Damien, patron saints of doctors and surgeons. The presence of their relics is thought to be the origin of the priory's name. It was in the 15th century that the two statues bearing their effigies were placed in the chapel as a reminder of the care the monks lavished on pilgrims in the Middle Ages.
An impressive refectory
First of all, it's worth noting that this is the only original building on the site, although the refectory was completely restored in 1947. We particularly liked the presence that emanates from this room. And to think that the monks used to take their meals in prayer in this room!
We were also impressed by the remarkable Romanesque pulpit, on the left as you enter the refectory, which served as a reading area during meals. Look up to see the carved Romanesque capitals! They feature floral and animal motifs, and even cherubs.
Finally, your visit to the refectory will not be complete if you don't take the time to admire its 14 stained glass windows. The priory called on Chinese artist Zao Wou-Ki (1920-2013) to take up the challenge of recreating them. He decided to work in black, a color that evokes the Indian ink used for his preparatory prints, but also a tribute to Ronsard's pen. In our opinion, the most vibrant stained glass windows are those in the pulpit, as they are highlighted in red, symbolizing happiness for the Chinese. To preserve the lightness of the painter's strokes, the stained glass windows were produced using the "decorated glass" technique. This involves digitizing the original print, printing it onto a polyester film, then applying a glass plate to each side and gluing it in place.
Plunge into the poetic world of Ronsard
You may be wondering why an author ended up in a convent? Simply because Ronsard was a religious man before he was a writer. After becoming a cleric at the age of 19, he rose steadily through the ranks of the Court, eventually attaining the prestigious position of chaplain and poet laureate to Henry II.
In 1565, at the age of 40, he arrived at Saint-Cosme Priory as prior, i.e. in charge of the place (paid out of the religious community's assets) with the option of continuing his writing activities.
Discovering the Prior's dwelling
You'll start on the first floor, where you'll find the kitchen and another room where a 10-minute film called "Voeu de poésie" is shown. Retracing the life of Ronsard, we recommend you watch this very well-made film! It is also documented with images shot in the poet's familiar places, and illustrated with prints and paintings related to his art. Then, on the second floor, you'll discover three rooms:
The reception room: this furnished room (fireplace, table, chair, tapestry) shows that Ronsard's home was also a place to live! In this room, we really appreciated the chronological frieze, which places Ronsard in his historical context.
The bedroom: What a thrill to imagine that it was in this room, from his bed, that he declaimed his last verses aloud:
"We must leave houses and orchards and gardens
Dishes and vessels chiselled by the craftsman
And sing his funeral in the manner of the Swan
Who sings his death on meandering shores".
The study: much smaller in size, it's no less pleasant with its window overlooking the garden, perfect for finding inspiration! Note that at the time, there was no ceiling. The roof structure was therefore visible, adding even more cachet to this dwelling, which we judged to be sober but comfortable.
Although the monuments existed as early as the 11th century, the dwelling was not built until 1350, during a phase of construction work begun mainly because of the problems associated with incessant flooding of the Loire. Take time to admire the magnificent framework as you climb to the top floor of the dwelling!
In the intimacy of Ronsard
We loved discovering the different rooms of the dwelling, with the unique impression of walking in Ronsard's footsteps. However, we fell in love with three elements that gave us the impression of being closer to the poet's intimacy:
The bust of Ronsard, located in the reception room. It's very important because there are very few representations of the poet. It's a death mask, molded directly onto his face shortly after his death. And to say the least, this statue exudes a wild presence! This sculpture pays tribute to the charisma of Ronsard, who died at the age of 61 at the height of his powers. He is depicted "à la romaine", with a laurel wreath, in reference to his nickname "Le Prince des Poètes", a title given by his peers for his pioneering commitment to French poetry.
Ronsard's tomb, located in the ruins of the main church. Ronsard remained prior until his death in December 1585, and was buried in the priory church. It wasn't until 1933 that his grave was discovered in the church chevet! After being identified, he was buried a second time, and his tomb is now placed in the choir of the church, in the open air, so that visitors can better admire his epitaph:
"Ronsard lies here, who, bold from childhood
Turned the muses of France away from Helicon,
Following the sound of the lute and the features of Apollo.
But little was his muse worth against the sting
From death, which cruel in this tomb encloses him:
His soul to God, his body to the earth."
We were moved to pay our respects at the tomb of this sacred monster of poetry!
Ronsard's vegetable garden: While it's well known that Ronsard was a fervent admirer of nature, we loved learning that he also had a green thumb! He grew his own poppies and calendula flowers for his rheumatism. Located at the rear of the dwelling, its garden is described as an "exotic kitchen garden", since rare species such as melons, artichokes and asparagus were introduced here in the 16th century. We loved strolling through these alleys! And don't miss the old roses, known as ephemera (because they only bloom in June), which inspired the author's best-known poem "Mignonne allons voir si la rose".
A visit under the sign of poetry
One might think that this exhibition space around Ronsard is too minimalist, but in our opinion, this approach is very interesting, as it allows the poetry to flow. In fact, the entire scenography has been designed to make room for Ronsard's poems, which can be read on the desks or, better still, heard!
Indeed, the priory's original feature is to punctuate its tour with sound extracts. We were very impressed by this device, which allows us to appreciate the musicality of the words in a poem! Don't miss out in the bedroom, the Plume de fer music stand, featuring Ronsard's most widely-read work of his time, Discours des misères de ce temps, about the Wars of Religion.
And what could be more moving than to have access to the original editions of Ronsard's works! Presented alternately for conservation reasons, you may also be lucky enough to see the Odes, a reissue from 1553.
Also of note:
- The guest kitchen (located between the refectory and the infirmary) displays a magnificent collection of poetry books illustrated by artists. Known as "poor books", they perpetuate the priory's poetic memory.
- The former hostelry, transformed into a library by the Friends of Ronsard, also offers a wealth of other content on the poet's fascinating life.
Taking a break from time
Spread over almost two hectares, the twelve gardens reflect the many facets of the Saint-Cosme Priory, a place of meditation and hard work (when the monks were growing vegetables), but also a place of poetry, with Ronsard passing through.
A unique and varied landscape
Completely redeveloped between 2010 and 2013, the gardens feature numerous nods to the priory's past, becoming narrative as well as decorative.
First of all, the garden's proportions evoke the sacredness of the place. First thing we noticed: the number 12 repeats! For example, there are 12 garden areas or 12 fig trees. This number has great Christian symbolism, as it refers to the 12 apostles, the Lord's chosen ones. Similarly, the religious cemetery is planted with noble laurels, religious symbols of immortality and rebirth. We've also found that the sparseness of the gardens awakens an almost divine contemplation! It's not for nothing that canons in the 12th century spoke of a "paradise on earth, making it easier to reach true heaven".
Gardens are also an extension of the past. In the orchard-bouquetier, for example, you'll find 85 fruit trees whose fruits were once used to decorate religious ceremonies. The perfume garden showcases the spices brought back by pilgrims passing through, while the monks' kitchen garden features a mix of vegetable, aromatic and medicinal plants. Finally, the garden also brings the ruins to life! Plants were used to highlight missing architectural elements. In the photo below, for example, the two columns that supported the vault are planted. It's an ingenious trick we've come to love!
A lively place
Over and above the heritage interest of the gardens, which we have detailed above, we particularly enjoyed strolling through this unique landscape, which has been designed as a place to live, thanks to its many facilities.
Our favorite? Hanging armchairs. What a pleasure to be able to relax after an afternoon of sightseeing! We stayed for quite a while, swaying and gazing at the scenery in the shade of the peaceful trees.
In fact, if we felt so withdrawn from the world, it's thanks to the dense planting that gives the garden an island feel. It's not for nothing that the island of Saint-Cosme was referred to before the priory was built. Located on the banks of the Loire, the site was absolutely peaceful, as we found out during our visit! Otherwise, we loved the fact that there were self-service book boxes to extend the poetry even into the garden!
If you'd like to continue your bucolic exploration, take a look at our article on the 12 most beautiful villages in the Loire Valley.
Last but not least, it's important to stress that the site is alive and kicking thanks to the artists who pass through it! Once dedicated to the art of poetry with Ronsard, the priory has decided to pursue its cultural commitment and bring its heritage into dialogue with contemporary creation. So, since 2015, the priory has hosted dozens of residencies for artists from different backgrounds (authors, visual artists, dancers).
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Frequently asked questions
Is visiting Saint-Cosme Priory fun?
Yes, of course! Numerous teaching aids are available to help you understand the priory's rich history and make your visit an immersive experience:
- On arrival: Visitors are given a booklet entitled "Voeu de poésie" (Vow of Poetry), with commentary, chronological references and a glossary to help them understand the history of the site. Fitted with a microchip, it triggers the listening of extracts of poems or music.
- In the interpretation rooms: various objects and labels present the evolution of the site and the discoveries made during the excavations.
- In the dwelling: projections and explanatory desks are available to visitors.
- In the garden: information sheets are scattered around with various explanations of the landscaping of the site, including plant names and historical details.
What events take place at Saint-Cosme Priory?
The priory is dynamic, to say the least! In addition to contemporary art exhibitions, the priory hosts shows and concerts during major events(Printemps des Poètes, between March and May, Rendez-vous aux jardins in June and the Festival Tours d'Horizon in June). Alongside these events, there are many other activities on offer (story readings, sensory garden tours, creative workshops), details of which can be found on the agenda on the official website here.
What is Prieuré Saint-Cosme's relationship with wine?
What a strange idea to associate wine with a cultural venue! Yet wine is part of the priory's heritage. In medieval times, monks were already able to appreciate Loire wine. So it's only natural that the priory should become the setting for the Touraine Wine Festival (November). To mark the occasion, a variety of wine-themed events are organized, including culinary workshops, round tables and exhibitions. Not to mention tastings of local vintages, some of which can even be found in the priory store! If you can't make it to the priory in November, you can book a tasting tour of the sublime Vouvray vineyards. See prices and availability.
What does the Livres Pauvres collection stand for?
In 2001, teacher and poet Daniel Leuwers initiated this collection of illustrated artists' books. He uses the term "poverty" to describe the medium of these books (a simple sheet of paper cut and folded) and the simplicity of their production. In fact, the sheet of paper is given to the author, who writes his verses and then entrusts it to an artist who adds an original drawing. This unique book is not marketed, as it is exhibited directly at the priory, freeing it from publishing, printing and distribution. Today, the priory's collections number over a thousand books, including some forty on display in rotation. Don't miss a visit to this extremely rare collection!
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